FAYETTEVILLE


The seven o’clock breakfast on this grey morning was the second of many early wake-ups at Mike and Wanda’s house. We were eager to travel 50 minutes southeast from Montgomery to meet Gabe Peña, the assistant resource coordinator at the Fayette County Urban Renewal Authority in Fayetteville, a forepromised liberal bubble in the southern West Virginia coal country. In anticipation to witnessing Fayetteville’s community and economic development, we whirled past numerous strips of small towns marked by local churches and dollar stores.

Our day began with touring the Canyon Rim Visitor Center, seated in a vantage point of the New River Gorge Arch Bridge. This impressive steel construction hangs over 800ft above the river below and holds the one of the largest, annual West Virginian festivals in October.


The view of the Arch Bridge from an overlook


The New River Gorge attracts an increasing amount of tourism, a hopeful economic driver for the region. The Center’s informational video highlighted the history of the New River from its origins in coal and lumber to its recreational resources in climbing and kayaking. Soon after, we spun the minivan (recently dubbed “Mudder Jones”) down the gorge to see the cliffs and rapids for ourselves.


New River Gorge Arch Bridge over some renowned class 4 rapids

We moved through the next few sites very quickly. Gene Kistler led us around the Summerlee gob pile to show us the effects of acid mine drainage in the wolf creek watershed.


Gene gestures to the oranged waters of the creek bed

In between navigating and pointing out landmarks, Gabe answered questions about the challenges and blessings of moving here from Texas: affordable living, food desert, community connection, neglected school system. We turned off Route 19 right behind a Sunoco gas station to find a sea of turquoise pipe sections. This pipe pile is one of three storage sites for an not-yet-approved natural gas pipeline and compressor that would run to the south but would not serve rural West Virginia.




Our next stop was Mount Hope which greeted us with an intentional, exposed coal seam in the entrance to town. Mount Hope’s prime left us with the beautiful, antebellum style brick and stone buildings, which felt like an uninhabited model town given the dwindling population of 1,100.


Sarah Carballo
Down the street toward Mount Hope’s town center

Andy Davis, Active Southern West Virginia’s bike and trail coordinator took us on a walking tour to show us the vision for how pedestrian and cyclist planning and promoting recreational exercise can bring more activity into Mount Hope.



Sarah Carballo
               This weather makes a great day for a sidewalk tour

We took a group photo in front of this shrine for Mount Hope’s miracle “ashless” coal, which depleted in the 50’s and 60’s.


Sarah Carballo

Gabe then brought us to the edge of the Whitlock Farm Property, a 62-acre farm now owned by the county’s Farmland Protection Board. With much insistence that this fertile land can address food poverty and promote agricultural education, the Urban Renewal Authority now leases the land and looks forward to creating various agricultural projects.  


Sarah Carballo
Posing in front of the fence to the expansive Whitlock Farms

For lunch, we dined at Secret Sandwich Society, a local restaurant in Fayetteville with an endless selection of loaded sandwiches. Afterwards, we went to the lounge upstairs to meet Catherine Moore, a writer, contributor to Inside Appalachia, and curator at the West Virginia Mine Wars Museum. She led us through the Coal Mine Wars, a history still omitted in some West Virginian history classes today. The recent teachers’ strike echoed the unionizing established during the wars by reclaiming the term ‘redneck’ for the red bandana donning miners of the movement. Catherine hopes that this story of activism, workers’ solidarity, and fight for justice will emphasize the heritage of West Virginians and its importance in bridging the rest of the nation’s understanding of this region. 


Sarah Carballo
Wanda’s mother shows Catherine her old family photos which are intertwined with WV’s mining history

Before heading home, we toured around Fayetteville for a little bit.


Town Hall where Gabe works



Mural by Fayetteville Arts Coalition

               On our way back to Montgomery, we drove by the Hawk’s Nest Tunnel site, the location of one of the greatest industrial disasters in American history. Unprotected workers died of silicosis due to the inhalation of fine, silica dust particles. Between 1930 and 1935, hundreds of workers died in order to dig the tunnel and harvest silica.


The marker of the site, even though we couldn’t find the tunnel entrance


The hydro power plant for which the tunnel was constructed is still in function

Right up the road behind Gauley Bridge was our last stop, the Cathedral Falls. The cascading rush of water offered such a nice contrast to the grave history of mining across the road.


We were excited to scramble at this local sight before heading back to Montgomery for the day.


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